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A Guide from Las Vegas to Los Angeles – Desert Stops at Valley of Fire, Mojave National Preserve, Route 66, Joshua Tree National Park and More

After celebrating winter holidays with its snow and hot chocolate, palm trees and desert vistas provide the perfect backdrop to welcome the new year. We flew to Las Vegas, where we spent a few days among the throngs, then made the desert trek to Los Angeles with its more laid back California vibe.

Las Vegas welcomed us with pop-up-wedding licenses and drives down the dazzling strip. Along with the yearlong attractions like the Bellagio Fountains, the winter holidays also feature themed displays. Especially spectacular this year, the nutcracker characters inside the Bellagio’s conservatory gave a view of how everything in Vegas is over the top. (To see more about this display as well as other past installations click here.)

Of course, the Sphere provides Vegas’ latest must-see experience. If no concerts are scheduled, the Postcard from Earth movie entertains with its visual sharpness, wrap-around screen and special effects like wind and moving seats. (Unfortunately, the first hour of the Sphere Experience is less impressive with only a few spots to see displays along with crowds of other attendees.) To catch the ever-changing view from outside, the Sands Avenue Bridge connecting the Palazzo and the Wynn gives a perfect spot for Sphere watching.

A short visit to Fremont Street also enchants with its musical light show and the chance to see some of the historic casinos. We enjoyed it during the day with fewer crowds, followed by a chai latte and hot tea at Vesta Coffee Roasters, a cozy cafe with a vibrant crowd.

For a more nature oriented day trip, the Valley of Fire State Park with its red Aztec sandstone is about an hour’s drive from Las Vegas. Although there are no real services inside the park, it has a nice visitor’s center that blends beautifully with the landscape. With only a couple of hours, you can explore the rocks, arches and petroglyphs, but you could easily spend a whole day. Camping would be delightful to be able to enjoy the sunset and sunrise light on the rocks.

Less than an hour outside of Vegas, the Spring Mountain Ranch State Park exhibits the ranch experience with Hollywood glamour and history. In the nearby small community of Blue Diamond, cozy Cottonwood Station warms up hikers with wood-fired pizza. The pancetta fig pizza with ricotta cheese and balsamic reduction looks like it has sparse toppings, but it packs perfectly balanced, flavorful bites.

The outpost town of Primm on the Nevada/California border fuels up desert venturers with Pinkbox Donuts …Holy Canoli, Tres Leches, Vegan New Year and Blueberry Croissant made it into our pink box.

The serenity of the desert is one of our favorite environments. During early morning drives through the Mojave National Preserve, few cars pass from the northern entrance at Nipton Road until exiting onto the I-40. The small, well-maintained road through the vast desert takes you past Joshua trees and the white Kelso Dunes. Kelso Depot displays a glimpse of the history of the boomtown during World War II.

A quick stop in Amboy, on the famed Route 66, serves as a backdrop for some fun shots!

National parks rank high on our lists of excursions. However, we’ll need to remember that park visits may not be best enjoyed during holiday weeks! The main one hour drive through Joshua Tree National Park passes through rocks, desert shrubs and trailheads that can be packed with visitors. The ranger at the visitor center coached us that if you see a parking spot, then that’s the trail you should take. Luckily, we found a spot on the trail we wanted … the Hidden Valley Trail which loops through a gorgeous box canyon. Twentynine Palms provides a cute small town base for exploring the park. Its Campbell Hill Bakery opens early and offers breads, pastries and sandwiches. On our list for next time is Jelly Donut where they serve donuts in the day and Pho at night.

Big Morongo Canyon Preserve in the Little San Bernardino Mountains allows for some short mountain trails. This area is part of the Sand to Snow National Monument and is home to the second highest density of breeding birds in the United States (1,400 nests per square kilometer).

Could there be a better brunch spot than Palm Springs with its amazing mid-century modern architecture and small town pace? We highly recommend L’Atelier Cafe!

We made the final leg of our desert journey to L.A. through light rain. Fortunately, the skies cleared for a view of the city from the Griffith Observatory. A beautifully renovated craftsman bungalow in Angelino Heights served as our home for the night with a short walk to Sunset Boulevard and dinner at Masa. Nearby Carroll and Kellum Avenues contain L.A.’s largest concentration of Victorian homes, including the Thriller house showcased in the legendary music video.

We always try to visit the local food markets during our travels. L.A.’s Grand Central Market doesn’t disappoint! Go early for tranquility, a visit to Donut Man and great photo opportunities. Or, go later in the day for the bustling market experience. Ramen Hood offers the warm, comfort food that’s perfect on a cool winter’s day.

The free tour at the Walt Disney Concert Hall informs not only about the unique Frank Gehry structure and its garden, but also the nearby Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, Ahmanson Theatre, and Mark Taper Forum. The tour docents are passionate, knowledgeable and brimming with insider tidbits.

For New Year’s Eve, we left behind the bungalow life for Beaux Arts elegance in the Biltmore Millenium with its spectacular public areas and 100 years of history, including JFK, the Academy Awards, Mad Men, Taylor Swift, Rocky, the Beatles and many, many more! The hotel’s NYE party guests, attired in 1920’s inspired fringe, pearls and feathers, spilled out of the ballrooms, lobbies and bars … a festive atmosphere to begin the evening!

Our first stop, the Gloria Molina Grand Park, featured three concert stages arranged on various levels at the base of the Los Angeles City Hall, where projections on its tower lit up the sky. As expected for southern California, a long line of food trucks stretched down the central street. A warmish night, salsa music and a diverse crowd ready to enjoy the night … a recipe for a great beginner course.

Back to the Disney Concert Hall for the main course with Pink Martini. Having grooved at several of their concerts, counting down at midnight was like being with old friends … and, of course, we just had lunch with lead singer, China Forbes (see more about that below.) When Ari Shapiro from NPR’s All Things Considered joins the group, the mood rises to another level with his high energy solos. A rapid countdown, exploding fireworks, falling streamers, the grape eating Spanish tradition… all melded into a joyous, reflective moment of embracing the new year while China serenaded with Auld Lang Syne.

New Year’s 2024 with Pink Martini and Walt Disney Concert Hall

The first day of the year should always be spent at the beach. A particular benefit in L.A. is that there is almost no traffic to the Santa Monica Pier on New Year’s Day (at least early in the morning!) From the pier, a paved beach trail goes to Venice Beach with fresh air and endless people-watching opportunities with vendors, skateboarders, and muscle beach guys. Along the way, walk a block inland to discover Shoop’s European Deli & Cafe for a relaxing brunch of omelets (including one with their famous smoked salmon), potatoes, and salad.

More to know…

Take a ride on the world’s shortest railway! Embarking on Angels Flight funicular from the lower entrance across from Grand Central Market lets you ride up the big hill to Grand Avenue. Unfortunately, we didn’t find it the first time we climbed that hill!

We finally made it to an In-N-Out Burger!

While ordering at Ramen Hood in the Grand Central Market, the woman sitting at the lunch counter looked up and said, “Whatever you do, order the broccoli. It’s incredible!” So, of course, we ordered the broccoli along with a huge bowl of ramen. Later, her friend sitting on the counter stool next to us asked how we liked the broccoli. After a bit of small talk, the couple left and we looked at each other and asked… “Was that China?” A memorable encounter for two Pink Martini admirers!

Wigwam Village #2 – Historic Roadside Motel Preserves Classic Americana near Mammoth Cave National Park

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To be honest, I wasn’t sure that I’d be writing a post about our stay in Wigwam Village #2. I felt uneasy about the unobscured cultural appropriation. However, within minutes of meeting one of the new owners, my doubts fell away. He easily brought up the topic and began educating us about what the original inventor/entrepreneur, Frank Redford, got right as well as what he got wrong with his roadside venture.

Wigwam Village #2

A short drive from Mammoth Cave National Park, Wigwam Village #2 is the type of Americana you’d expect to find along Route 66. In fact, although the first two villages were built in this southern Kentucky community, the only other remaining villages are actually along Route 66: the #6 in Holbrook, Arizona and the #7 in San Bernardino, California.

Turning off of Highway 31W, you’re welcomed by the newly restored neon sign that invites you to “Eat and Sleep in a Wigwam.” (Among the things Redford got wrong was his preference for calling the structures wigwams instead of teepees. What he got right was creating a sense of community among overnight guests!)

The owner met us at the office and invited us to sit on the porch while he shared a short history of the wigwams and answered our questions. Other guests joined us as they arrived as well as a man who stopped by looking for souvenirs. Learning the history at check-in really helped us to appreciate the details during our stay. We were also immediately struck by the passion that the new owners are bringing to its renovation!

Cozy wigwam #14 provided a great night’s sleep. The original bed, chair and vanity table took us back to 1937. Luckily, the new mattress helped us sleep in the modern age! A heater quickly warmed up the space and there is an air conditioner for summer. The shower surprised us with great water pressure, lots of hot water and a drain that works. Taking a close look at the red and white tiled floor and the red wall tile designs gave us an appreciation for the detail that went into the original construction.

Encircled by the teepees is a large communal play area with fire pits and a playground that encourages fireside conversation just as it happened 80 plus years ago. There’s also a grill area and lighted picnic pavilion with tables.

The largest teepee sits in front by the neon sign. Currently closed, it formerly housed a lunch counter and gift shop. The new owners plan to renovate it and open it as a coffee shop. Can’t wait to return for a latte!!!

More to know…

To read more about the history and architecture of the village, go to their website at Historic Wigwam Village or look here for the information they provide in each guest room.

For authentic New York style pizza, try Cave City Pizza. In Horse Cave, Farmwald’s Dutch Bakery and Restaurant makes light, yeast doughnuts … caramel glazed, cream-filled, jelly-filled and more!

The boardwalk loop trail at Sloan’s Crossing Pond Walk is perfect for an above ground stroll in Mammoth Cave NP.

Yucatan Adventures – Tulum and Bacalar

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A mid-December holiday beckoned us to sun and fun. Wanting to explore the Yucatan Peninsula, a friend from Mexico said, “Let’s go to Bacalar!”

Relatively quick and cheap flights from the southern U.S. to Cancun make travel easy. Leaving the Cancun International Airport, it’s about an hour and a half drive to Tulum barring delays due to construction or accidents. New to us were roads having a lane and a half going each way. Luckily, our friend was driving, but you quickly learn how to drive and pass by watching the other cars navigate.

Bacalar

Larger and busier than expected, Tulum still offers pleasurable walking. Bicycle paths through much of the city provide a great way to avoid the traffic and to see life passing by at a slower pace.

An early morning start to see the Tulum Ruins pays off in avoiding the crowds that arrive by mid-morning. Spectacularly located overlooking the rolling, blue ocean, paths lead you around different ruins that you view from a distance. We stumbled (almost literally) over several iguanas here. They are masters of camouflage!

As part of the fee to the ruins, you can also buy entrances to the cave tour and cenote at Aktun Chen. To find this nature park, you drive a dirt road through a jungle for about 20 minutes.The guided cave tour is an easy, dry walk with an underground lake as its grand finale.

Another short drive leads to the cenote. Upon arrival, locker rooms, showers and life jackets await. Step down a few stairs and, voila, you enter a pristine lake nestled within a cave. For some, it takes a bit to get used to the cool water, but once you do, exploring the two large caverns is exhilarating! Visits are not time limited. We spent over an hour with just our group and one other couple. Another small group joined us just before we left. (TRAVEL TIP: Bring a small dry bag for your camera. It will make taking pictures more enjoyable.)

Nearby, Los Primos in Chemuyil delivers a welcoming atmosphere and excellent ceviche and tacos for a late lunch.

A recommendation by our waiter, the tranquility of Akumal beach creates a perfect setting for a memorable sunset walk.

Vibrant nighttime streets in Tulum buzz with street food vendors, fruit stands, restaurants and shops. We bought glazed clay bowls for guacamole and small musical instruments for patio fiestas at home. The Argentinian restaurant, El Sudaca, charms with a breezy vibe to go along with its tasty chimichurri!

On the drive south, the Muyil Mayan Ruins let you feel like Indiana Jones discovering lost civilizations.

Also at Muyil, book a boat to take you into the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. This saves time for those who don’t want to drive to the bioreserve’s main location in Punta Allen. A twenty minute jungle walk on a boardwalk takes you to the embarkation point on Laguna Chunyaxché. Once on the boat, the captain smoothly navigates across the lagoon and into the mangrove canals. Ultimately, you can jump into the canal and let a slow current take you and your life jacket for a 30 minute ride through the mangroves where the Captain meets you at the end. (Although a small crocodile was spotted along the way, the Captain gave assurances that “most” don’t come out until nighttime!)

Driving another couple of hours south takes you to the town of Bacalar, about 50 kilometers north of the Belize border. For our stay with a group of six, our rented house also included a guest house and a private dock with kayaks. Only a ten minute drive to the plaza made for a convenient location.

The town of Bacalar welcomes with a large central plaza for strolling and admiring the blue-green lagoon. Busy restaurants and cafes line the streets. We didn’t venture far while taking nighttime strolls but were able to find everything in close vicinity to the plaza.

In the mornings, stop at Mercado Municipal de Bacalar to purchase fresh fruits and vegetables, homemade tortillas and fresh fish from Pescaderia del Guero. (They also have a second larger store that is not in the center of town.) What a treat to cook and eat fresh fish!

We packed ceviche, guacamole and maduros from El Taco Loco for our boat outing on Laguna Bacalar, known as the Lagoon of the Seven Colors, The boat picked us up at our dock for two and a half hours that included swimming at three locations and visiting three cenotes. Unlike the boat trip at the protected biosphere reserve, this lagoon had several boats and jet skis although not overwhelmingly so. If you visit Bacalar, you’ll definitely want to reserve a boat excursion!

Walking through the forests at the Mayan Ruins of Kohunlich rewards the visitor with canopies of large, vibrant tropical foliage. Amazingly, we experienced these ruins practically by ourselves with only a handful of other guests in the whole area. Walking through these timeworn structures inspires awe. We almost missed the Temple of the Masks when we were trying to outrun the mosquitos Glad we didn’t!

To access the ruins at Dzibanche, it’s necessary to pay locals for use of the road. The government still maintains the ruins and its nearby roads, but the outer road between the main highway and the park road is not maintained and makes for slow driving. But, it is more than worth it!! Again, we found ourselves as adventurers stumbling upon undiscovered treasures…crossing paths with practically no one at the whole site.

Closeby at Kinichna stands the tallest pyramid in the area, the House of the Sun. It’s built in four levels which means you climb for a while then have a grassy terrace then more steps to climb up to the next level. Standing on top of this towering, hallowed pyramid, with the vista of the jungle encircling you, is one of those moments you breathe slowly and try to capture the image to last a lifetime.

Stops Along the Way:

Yes to Puerto Moreles! A 30 minute drive from the airport, this cute and lively town invites you to spend more time. We stopped by both times that we passed by it. Check out the restaurant El Merkadito Seafood and Beach Club. Hope to return to Puerto Moreles on future trips!

No to Mahahual! What probably used to be a quaint seaport now welcomes cruise ships and its throngs. While we were there, four ships were docked. The walkway with a beach view is comfortable, but the constant contact with vendors selling souvenirs, massages or places to sit is not relaxing. From here, our friends hired a boat for an incredible snorkeling trip to the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, the second largest in the world. Find a less touristy location to depart for snorkeling and avoid this stop if you can.

Serendipity Notes:

Unplanned, joyous moments always pop up during travels. To wait out a downpour before visiting the Mayan Ruins Kohunlich, we backtracked to the only sign of civilization we had passed. Luckily, The Explorean Kohunlich welcomed us to watch the FIFA WorldCup finals with guests, coffee and croissants.