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Rainy Days in Charleston, SC

(For full disclosure, this trip was made pre-COVID in 2019.  We are currently at home, dreaming and planning for future travel after the pandemic becomes history. Now is the perfect time to remember past adventures.  We are so grateful for the places we have experienced!)

Are the charms of Charleston´s people, history, and cuisine lost when summer rains set in?  Do showers and storms mean that a trip becomes a wash-out?  We found the answer to be “no way” during a short, three-day visit.

With seemingly never ending rain, indoor dining was a must during this trip.  The Five Loaves Cafe had a local, homegrown feel.  A unique, culinary message handwritten on each tabletop greeted us while the relaxed ambiance and friendly staff invited us to stay a while.

The creamy, shrimp gnocchi and  steamed mussels immediately transported us to coastal dining with fresh seafood.  

A few drizzly, damp walks rewarded us with up close views of this city’s masterpiece homes.  Although they can be imposing, they remain friendly and welcoming with their balconies and gardens.  Each one displays its own personality and hints at the stories that have played out within its walls.

We escaped a deluge of rain one day during the inside tour of the spectacular Nathaniel Russell House.  The staircase is amazing!  Their website can say it better than we can…”The home’s graceful, free-flying, three-story staircase is an architectural marvel with each cantilevered step supporting the one above and below it.”

Who in their right mind orders beets on a pizza?  Turns out, if you take the beet plunge at Dal’s Pizza you’ll be rewarded.  Their Beetnik with mozzarella and goat cheese, bacon, golden beets and rosemary removed all childhood fears of beets!

With a break in the rain, we drove to nearby Tybee Island for lunch at The Crab Shack.  This dock-side patio, including cool mist from the overhanging trees, provides the perfect spot to enjoy a low country boil of shrimp, crab, corn, potatoes and sausage. 

Magnolia Plantation opened its gardens to visitors in 1870, making it the oldest public garden in the US.   The designers created a magical space by fully incorporating the swamp into the gardens and successfully resisting any attempt to tame the natural setting.  This was a place we didn’t mind to return to for a repeat visit.

We weren’t able to eat at Basil, but we loved the sign at night!

Beijing in Spring

We were fortunate enough last Spring to visit one of the world’s oldest cities, Beijing.  Now, we’re fortunate to have some time at home to write and share it with you. We visited Beijing last April as flowering trees provided fragrance and color to an already enchanting place.  Our flight over departed on a Saturday and we returned the following Saturday. We found this to be the perfect amount of time to experience the history, art, food and, of course, the people in the world’s most populous capital city.

We knew we weren’t in Kansas anymore (figuratively speaking) when we navigated the narrow, pedestrian, street-signless alleys of the hutongs to find our hotel! Kelly´s Courtyard Hotel was highly recommended by friends and we loved it!  Our host, Dean, spoke great English and assisted us with everything that we needed.  Each morning we started our day with a breakfast in their cozy, enclosed courtyard.

Although travel weary, we wanted to explore at least a little that first night.  We only had to walk down a few alleys to find a small, neighborhood park. It was a welcoming first experience to see the neighbors meeting for weekly dance and karaoke sessions.

The following days we easily walked and used the metro to explore all corners of central Beijing.  An early morning walk through Beihai Park led us to a large garden surrounding an urban lake. Here, we watched older Chinese move together in tai chi as well as others dancing in traditional clothing.  

Beijing’s Drum Tower, built in 1272 during the reign of Kublai Khan, houses 24 drums which were used for music and to announce the time.  This continued to be the official timekeeping method until 1924 when the Qing Dynasty ended with Puyi, The Last Emperor (see footnote below!)

We were surrounded by school children on a field trip at The Temple of Heaven.  Each student wore a light-blue uniform and assembling a wooden model of the temple.  Emperors visited this temple each year to offer prayers for a good harvest.

Tiananmen Square, famous for the 1989 student protests, seemed quiet for its expansiveness and its importance.  A few families were ordering food from a food truck parked in the plaza. On one side of the square stands the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong.

The Forbidden City is one of those places that takes you back to another world.  One palace falls behind you to open up yet another and then another. Side courtyards beckon.  You get butterflies in your stomach thinking about the events that have happened here and how those events changed the world.

Our first encounter with The Egg was at night after a long day of exploring.  What an amazing view to end the day! The titanium and glass structure houses the National Centre for the Performing Arts.  We were lucky enough to have an inside tour another day, entering via an underwater passageway that opens up into the cavernous lobby.  The experience inside is as wondrous as from the outside.

A metro to the outskirts of Beijing took us to The Summer Palace.  Architecturally reminiscent of the Forbidden City, it was (and is) a quiet retreat from the city.  A large artificial lake anchors the buildings, some of which were like a backlot “Main Street” where the royals pretended with their courtiers to be normal citizens shopping in markets.

We wanted to avoid the heavy tourism of the closest segment of The Great Wall. So, along with others in our hotel, we hired a driver to take us for an all-day excursion to Jinshanling.  Here, a gondola took us up to the wall. It’s a bit tricky to walk with uneven rocks and steep stairs, but it’s definitely an experience of a lifetime to take in the views and ponder the history of this country and its people.

A musical performance in the courtyard of the Beijing Confucius Temple was enlightening in its artistic commemoration of Confucius.

The prior year, we observed the holiday of Qīngmíng (Tomb Sweeping Day) in Hong Kong.  It was interesting to observe the day again but this time in China.  It’s a day of remembrance for ancestors similar to our Memorial Day. One tradition is to burn fake paper money and you can see huge bags of the colorful paper money for sale at the stores.  Although we were told that it is forbidden to burn the money in the streets or parks now, we observed some older residents still lighting theirs on fire in the alleys of our hutong.

For a thoroughly modern artistic experience, we visited the 798 Art District.  Similar to other art districts we’ve enjoyed, it’s housed in an old industrial complex. This destination attracts a younger crowd with its art galleries, murals, installations and coffee shops.

Amazingly incredible!  That’s the only way to describe Beijing’s cuisine.  From the street food (like scorpions on a stick) of Old Beijing Custom Street, to the terrific everywhere Kung Pao chicken, potstickers and noodle bowls… to the unforgetable Peking Duck experience, it was all so delicious!

With our current COVID19 quarantine situation, we are more content than ever that we’ve taken advantage of every opportunity to travel.  While at home, we are reliving amazing moments in places like Beijing and dreaming of the adventures that await us. Hope you’re planning your own explorations as well.  Comment to let us know your recommendations for our post-quarantine travel! 

Footnotes

For an at-home travel fix, we recommend that you watch The Last Emperor.  Even if you’ve seen it before, it’s still a great movie to transport you to another place.  It was actually filmed in The Forbidden City.

Did we feel safe in China?  Yes! The people are friendly and helpful and there are cameras literally everywhere!  In the neighborhoods there are local police at intersections and lots of security in the metro and airports.  Even though it’s a large city, driving is still somewhat of a free-for-all. So, that is definitely best left up to the locals and watch carefully before crossing any larger streets!

Christmas Lights and Tapas in Valladolid, Spain

There’s something special about Christmas lights when traveling.  It makes the discovery of far away places even more magical.  

While the medieval city of Valladolid is always captivating, when decorated for Christmas it becomes even more enchanting.

In north-central Spain just one hour north of Madrid by train, Valladolid is an unknown gem.  In 1469, the Catholic Monarchs, Isabel I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon married here.  Later, it became the capital of the Kingdom of Castile and ultimately the capital of united Spain.

The Plaza Mayor was the first great plaza in Spain and the model for others in Madrid and Salamanca among others.

During the holidays, the plaza becomes a winter market for gifts and treats like churros with warm chocolate for dipping and roasted castañas (chestnuts.)

Stretching across the city’s cobblestoned streets, illuminated decorations create a festive ambiance radiating outward from the plaza.

Plaza Mayor and Calle Santiago, Valladolid (Spain) December 2019

Each year, various belenes (Nativity Scenes) are on display throughout the city as a way to share the craftsmanship and history of these cultural traditions. 

Many families visit the same belenes each year as part of their family’s holiday celebrations.

This belen, Belén Monumental, is on display in the Sala de Exposiciones de Las Francesas. Interestingly, its theme this year is based on the movie, Avatar.

As you wander through the illuminated streets, tapas await around every corner. 

Fodor’s describes this Spanish region as:

 …the “Tapas Capital of The World,” thanks in part to the success of the National and International Tapas Competition, which takes place in Valladolid during the first week of November every year. It’s a place that takes its food just as seriously as its wines…

In our opinion, La Tasquita at Calle Caridad 2, serves the city’s best calamari. Order it along with una clara (Spanish lager draft beer like Mahou mixed with carbonated water) and you won’t be disappointed!

More of our favorites to try are Los Zagales, Vinotinto, and La Taberna del Herrero.

While you’re in Valladolid for the holidays, we also recommend that you visit Manuel Iborra for their high quality turron.  Almond and Yema Tostada flavors are our favorites.  With their compact size, these make unique gifts to take back home as well!

For lighthearted insight into what exactly is turron and what are the most common flavors, we enjoyed reading this post: https://mrdach.com/what-is-turron-seriously-spain-i-need-to-know

To view more photos of the belenes (nativity scenes) visit this page.