Tag Archives: Architecture

A Guide from Las Vegas to Los Angeles – Desert Stops at Valley of  Fire, Mojave National Preserve, Route 66, Joshua Tree National Park and More

After celebrating winter holidays with its snow and hot chocolate, palm trees and desert vistas provide the perfect backdrop to welcome the new year. We flew to Las Vegas, where we spent a few days among the throngs, then made the desert trek to Los Angeles with its more laid back California vibe.

Las Vegas welcomed us with pop-up-wedding licenses and drives down the dazzling strip.  Along with the yearlong attractions like the Bellagio Fountains, the winter holidays also feature themed displays.  Especially spectacular this year, the nutcracker characters inside the Bellagio’s conservatory gave a view of how everything in Vegas is over the top. (To see more about this display as well as other past installations click here.)

Of course, the Sphere provides Vegas’ latest must-see experience.  If no concerts are scheduled, the Postcard from Earth movie entertains with its visual sharpness, wrap-around screen and special effects like wind and moving seats.  (Unfortunately, the first hour of the Sphere Experience is less impressive with only a few spots to see displays along with crowds of other attendees.)  To catch the ever-changing view from outside, the Sands Avenue Bridge connecting the Palazzo and the Wynn gives a perfect spot for Sphere watching.

A short visit to Fremont Street also enchants with its musical light show and the chance to see some of the historic casinos.  We enjoyed it during the day with fewer crowds, followed by a chai latte and hot tea at Vesta Coffee Roasters, a cozy cafe with a vibrant crowd.  

For a more nature oriented day trip, the Valley of Fire State Park with its red Aztec sandstone is about an hour’s drive from Las Vegas.  Although there are no real services inside the park, it has a nice visitor’s center that blends beautifully with the landscape.  With only a couple of hours, you can explore the rocks, arches and petroglyphs, but you could easily spend a whole day.  Camping would be delightful to be able to enjoy the sunset and sunrise light on the rocks.

Less than an hour outside of Vegas, the Spring Mountain Ranch State Park exhibits the ranch experience with Hollywood glamour and history. In the nearby small community of Blue Diamond, cozy Cottonwood Station warms up hikers with wood-fired pizza.  The pancetta fig pizza with ricotta cheese and balsamic reduction looks like it has sparse toppings, but it packs perfectly balanced, flavorful bites.  

The outpost town of Primm on the Nevada/California border fuels up desert venturers with Pinkbox Donuts …Holy Canoli, Tres Leches, Vegan New Year and Blueberry Croissant made it into our pink box.

The serenity of the desert is one of our favorite environments.  During early morning drives  through the Mojave National Preserve, few cars pass from the northern entrance at Nipton Road until exiting onto the I-40.  The small, well-maintained road through the vast desert takes you past Joshua trees and the white Kelso Dunes.  Kelso Depot displays a glimpse of the history of the boomtown during World War II. 

A quick stop in Amboy, on the famed Route 66, serves as a backdrop for some fun shots!  

National parks rank high on our lists of excursions.  However, we’ll need to remember that park visits may not be best enjoyed during holiday weeks!  The main one hour drive through Joshua Tree National Park passes through rocks, desert shrubs and trailheads that can be packed with visitors.  The ranger at the visitor center coached us that if you see a parking spot, then that’s the trail you should take. Luckily, we found a spot on the trail we wanted … the Hidden Valley Trail which loops through a gorgeous box canyon. Twentynine Palms provides a cute small town base for exploring the park.  Its Campbell Hill Bakery opens early and offers breads, pastries and sandwiches. On our list for next time is Jelly Donut where they serve donuts in the day and Pho at night.

Big Morongo Canyon Preserve in the Little San Bernardino Mountains allows for some short mountain trails.  This area is part of the Sand to Snow National Monument and is home to the second highest density of breeding birds in the United States (1,400 nests per square kilometer).

Could there be a better  brunch  spot than Palm Springs with its amazing mid-century modern architecture and small town pace?  We highly recommend L’Atelier Cafe!

We made the final leg of our desert journey to L.A. through light rain.  Fortunately, the skies cleared for a view of the city from the Griffith Observatory.  A beautifully renovated craftsman bungalow in Angelino Heights served as our home for the night with a  short walk to Sunset Boulevard and dinner at Masa. Nearby Carroll and Kellum Avenues contain L.A.’s largest concentration of Victorian homes, including the Thriller house showcased in the legendary music video.  

We always try to visit the local food markets during our travels.  L.A.’s Grand Central Market doesn’t disappoint!  Go early for tranquility, a visit to Donut Man and great photo opportunities. Or, go later in the day for the bustling market experience.   Ramen Hood offers the warm, comfort food that’s perfect on a cool winter’s day.  

The free tour at the Walt Disney Concert Hall informs not only about the unique Frank Gehry structure and its garden, but also the nearby Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, Ahmanson Theatre, and Mark Taper Forum.  The tour docents are passionate, knowledgeable and brimming with insider tidbits. 

For New Year’s Eve, we left behind the bungalow life for Beaux Arts elegance in the Biltmore Millenium with its spectacular public areas and 100 years of history, including JFK, the Academy Awards, Mad Men, Taylor Swift, Rocky, the Beatles and many, many more! The hotel’s NYE party guests, attired in 1920’s inspired fringe, pearls and feathers, spilled out of the ballrooms, lobbies and bars … a festive atmosphere to begin the evening!

Our first stop, the Gloria Molina Grand Park, featured three concert stages arranged on various levels at the base of the Los Angeles City Hall, where projections on its tower lit up the sky.  As expected for southern California, a long line of food trucks stretched down the central street.  A warmish night, salsa music and a diverse crowd ready to enjoy the night … a recipe for a great beginner course.

Back to the Disney Concert Hall for the main course with Pink Martini.  Having grooved at several of their concerts, counting down at midnight was like being with old friends … and, of course, we just had lunch with lead singer, China Forbes (see more about that below.)  When Ari Shapiro from NPR’s All Things Considered joins the group, the mood rises to another level with his high energy solos.  A rapid countdown, exploding fireworks, falling streamers, the grape eating Spanish tradition… all melded into a joyous, reflective moment of embracing the new year while China serenaded with Auld Lang Syne.

New Year’s 2024 with Pink Martini and Walt Disney Concert Hall

The first day of the year should always be spent at the beach.  A particular benefit in L.A. is that there is almost no traffic to the Santa Monica Pier on New Year’s Day (at least early in the morning!) From the pier, a paved beach trail goes to Venice Beach with fresh air and endless people-watching opportunities with vendors, skateboarders, and muscle beach guys.  Along the way, walk a block inland to discover Shoop’s European Deli & Cafe for a relaxing brunch of omelets (including one with their famous smoked salmon), potatoes, and salad. 

More to know…

Take a ride on the world’s shortest railway!  Embarking on Angels Flight funicular from the lower entrance across from Grand Central Market lets you ride up the big hill to Grand Avenue.  Unfortunately, we didn’t find it the first time we climbed that hill!

We finally made it to an In-N-Out Burger!

While ordering at Ramen Hood in the Grand Central Market, the woman sitting at the lunch counter looked up and said, “Whatever you do, order the broccoli.  It’s incredible!”  So, of course, we ordered the broccoli along with a huge bowl of ramen.  Later, her friend sitting on the counter stool next to us asked how we liked the broccoli. After a bit of small talk, the couple left and we looked at each other and asked… “Was that China?”  A memorable encounter for two Pink Martini admirers!

Wigwam Village #2 – Historic Roadside Motel Preserves Classic Americana near Mammoth Cave National Park

To be honest, I wasn’t sure that I’d be writing a post about our stay in Wigwam Village #2.   I felt uneasy about the unobscured cultural appropriation.  However, within minutes of meeting one of the new owners, my doubts fell away.  He easily brought up the topic and began educating us about what the original inventor/entrepreneur, Frank Redford, got right as well as what he got wrong with his roadside venture. 

A short drive from Mammoth Cave National Park, Wigwam Village #2 is the type of Americana you’d expect to find along Route 66.  In fact, although the first two villages were built in this southern Kentucky community, the only other remaining villages are actually along Route 66: the #6 in Holbrook, Arizona and the #7 in San Bernardino, California.

Turning off of Highway 31W, you’re welcomed by the newly restored neon sign that invites you to “Eat and Sleep in a Wigwam.”  (Among the things Redford got wrong was his preference for calling the structures wigwams instead of teepees.  What he got right was creating a sense of community among overnight guests!)

The owner met us at the office and invited us to sit on the porch while he shared a short history of the wigwams and answered our questions.  Other guests joined us as they arrived as well as a man who stopped by looking for souvenirs.  Learning the history at check-in really helped us to appreciate the details during our stay.  We were also immediately struck by the passion that the new owners are bringing to its renovation!

Cozy wigwam #14 provided a great night’s sleep.  The original bed, chair and vanity table took us back to 1937.  Luckily, the new mattress helped us sleep in the modern age!  A heater quickly warmed up the space and there is an air conditioner for summer.  The shower surprised us with great water pressure, lots of hot water and a drain that works.  Taking a close look at the red and white tiled floor and the red wall tile designs gave us an appreciation for the detail that went into the original construction.  

Encircled by the teepees is a large communal play area with fire pits and a playground that encourages fireside conversation just as it happened 80 plus years ago.  There’s also a grill area and lighted picnic pavilion with tables.

The largest teepee sits in front by the neon sign.  Currently closed, it formerly housed a lunch counter and gift shop.  The new owners plan to renovate it and open it as a coffee shop.  Can’t wait to return for a latte!!!

More to know…

To read more about the history and architecture of the village, go to their website at Historic Wigwam Village or look here for the information they provide in each guest room.

For authentic New York style pizza, try Cave City Pizza.  In Horse Cave, Farmwald’s Dutch Bakery and Restaurant makes light, yeast doughnuts … caramel glazed, cream-filled, jelly-filled and more! 

The boardwalk loop trail at Sloan’s Crossing Pond Walk is perfect for an above ground stroll in Mammoth Cave NP.

Travel Indiana – Road Trip to Columbus, Brown County and Bean Blossom

For those enchanted by modernist architecture, a pilgrimage to Columbus, Indiana rewards with multiple gems.  Add some fabulous food and a side excursion to Brown County and Bean Blossom to complete a memorable long-weekend getaway.

Thanks to the forward-thinking, industrialist couple, Joseph Irwin Miller and his wife, Selma, Columbus attracted world renowned architects such as Eero Saarinen and I. M. Pei.  Many of the structures are within a few downtown blocks while others are only a short drive away.

The Visitor’s Center offers tours of the Miller House.  When the tour van pulls into the driveway, you’re  immersed into the collaborative masterpiece of Eero Saarinen (structure), Alexander Girard (interior) and Dan Kiley (landscaping,) The furniture, rugs, decorations, books, etc. are all original thanks to the family’s donation.  From the suspended fireplace to the pillowed conversation pit, the home invites you with its playful refinement.

Sitting above the grassy “void” below, the structure sits prominently on a hill.  Various horizontal allées (walkways lined with trees) separate outside rooms although there is no real fence on the property. The nearby road is buffered only by horizontal plantings of arborvitae.  The couple desired to not separate themselves from the community and had no gates to close the driveways.  (Our tour guide laughingly recounted that children rode their bikes through the property and in the 1970s she even went so far as to drive her car up to the garage in curiosity…until she saw the owners and their driver preparing to leave the house.  They all politely waved to each other before she made a quick departure.)

Although we luckily reserved tickets for the house tour, we weren’t so lucky with the downtown walking tour (book as far in advance as possible!)  With a $3 map from the visitor’s center and the Columbus IN Tour online app, we successfully explored on our own.  Fortunately, the town seems comfortable with visitors walking into and around buildings with no purpose except to enjoy the design elements.

I. M. Pei’s Cleo Rogers Memorial Library
The First Christian Church designed by architect Eliel Saarinen, father of Eero Saarinen.
St. Bartholomew Catholic Church – exterior
St. Bartholomew Catholic Church – interior
North Christian Church by Eero Saarinen
St. Peter’s Lutheran Church – exterior
St. Peter’s Lutheran Church – interior

For Chihuly fans, the Visitor Center’s installation displays his typical forms.

A short drive takes you to another Chihuly  exhibit.  This one features a flat circular panel suspended in a silo.  Read more here about his works in Columbus.

In downtown Columbus, it’s easy to find local dining options. 

Fine dining with friends at Henry Social Club.  Roasted cod, homemade ravioli and tofu with vegetables were all winners.  (So good, in fact, that they were eaten before we thought about pictures!)

Find casual dining at Upland Columbus Pump House.  Fish-n-chips, pizza, burgers and wings… a peaceful evening on the deck overlooking the river.

Forget about the calories at Zaharakos Ice Cream Parlor … an authentic soda fountain from 1900.

We found our coffee winner for this trip at Lucabe Coffee

An easy 20 minute drive to the west of Columbus takes you to Brown County State Park.  With miles of paved drives overlooking forested vistas, the park is a particularly popular destination in the fall.  (We first stopped by the Farmhouse Cafe and Tearoom in nearby Bean Blossom for a BLT and potato salad to go.  A tranquil autumn picnic in the park.)

Closeby, a still driveable covered bridge transports you not only across the water but to a different era.

More to know…

The Miller House Garden designhttps://www.gardendesign.com/indiana/columbus-miller-house.html

Architecture in Columbus – https://columbus.in.us/architecture-story/

Joseph Irwin Miller – https://www.huffpost.com/entry/the-cathedral-builder-in_b_7033742\

Our AirBnb was only a couple of blocks from downtown.  It was quiet, comfortable and well-equipped.

Try this link to search for the AirBnb.