Landmarks (and a Few Surprises!) in London

You can repeatedly vacation in London and follow a new itinerary each time. For our seven days there, we chose to visit some of London’s landmarks and by sheer luck encountered some unforgettable surprises along the way. With its fusion of peoples, foods, music, art styles and languages, London reveals the positive nature of multiculturalism.
We flew into London on a two-hour EasyJet flight from Valencia. Our vacation home host, Driton, met us and helped us get oriented. We stayed one block past Essex Road close to the Islington and Highbury Underground station. A nearby supermarket supplied us with food for breakfast at the apartment and a packed lunch so we could have an impromptu picnic each day.
Free entrance into the National Gallery provided an afternoon of viewing a world-renowned collection of art including sunflowers by van Gogh, bathers by Monet, and cousins Jesus and John by da Vinci.

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Trafalgar Square

A walk through Camden Town’s many small, cobblestone streets led us to vintage shopping, Amy Winehouse and a walk along the canal. The Polish food @highlander.game brought back great memories of our trip to Krakow last year with their pierogies and half-metre sausages.


A short walk from Camden Town led us to an unobstructed city view at Primrose Hill.

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Primrose Hill

For Harry Potter fans, a visit to Warner Bros. Studio Tour London – The Making of Harry Potter seems mandatory. Even for those of us who don’t know all the rules of Quidditch, it’s an inspiring excursion. While it sounds like it might be an amusement park, it’s actually the studio sets and props used for filming the movies. You can’t help but be impressed by the level of detail used to create everything from hundreds of handmade bottle labels in Snape’s potions classroom to the realistic Diagon Alley streetscape. It’s also interesting to learn their tricks for using computer generated imagery to bring the fantasy of Hogwarts and wizards alive. Because these tickets sell out quickly, we bought ours online several months ahead of our visit.

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One could probably admire and read the exhibits in the British Museum for months. It’s unbelievable the trove of historical items that they’ve collected. Based upon the crowds, the ancient Egypt exhibit wins the “most popular” title. However, you can easily view other antiquities without crowds around you. It was incredible to reflect upon objects like the Rosetta Stone, an Easter Island statue and Parthenon sculptures that record the history of humankind.


Needing a break from history and museums, we spent one night out in Covent Garden. Although we previously attended a Mamma Mia! production, the second time at the Novello Theatre was just as fun and danceable. We bought the tickets online in early March for our mid-July visit.

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The pace for our day on the South Bank was a bit slower. We began with a morning walk through the Borough Market to watch the vendors prepare for the day. Next, we passed by the Globe Theatre and visited the Tate Modern following an enjoyable one-hour tour. The view from the 10th floor was spectacular not only because of the downtown London vista but also because you could get a peek into the impeccably furnished flats of the high-rises next door. We followed a quick look into the Imperial War Museum by spending a few lazy hours in The Kennington Coffee Shop. Here, while sipping lattes, iced coffees and iced teas, we chatted with several regulars about politics (Trump and Brexit), life in London, past travels and future plans.


At the Tower of London, the Crown Jewels took center stage; however, equally intriguing was learning about the prisoners detained there, its one-time impressive collection of royal beasts ranging from lions to polar bears, and the 2014 art installation, Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Red, to commemorate England’s fallen soldiers from WWI.
We ended our week with a walk through the more affluent South Kensington district where we popped in to see the food selection at Harrods. We visited the magnificent Natural History Museum only for a brief time just because we had lost stamina for museums. (Something for the next visit!) At the Lebanese cafe, Noura, we relaxed a bit and tried a new drink. Jallab is a wonderful concoction of grape molasses, dates and rose water topped with pine nuts that tastes as great as it looks!


What were those vacation surprises we mentioned?
On our first day in London, we encountered a rather large surprise. We walked early in the morning to Buckingham Palace to watch the changing of the guard, completely unaware that it was the day for the Royal Air Force 100th anniversary celebration. Not only were we able to see military parades and the flyover of 100 planes, but we also saw the entire Royal Family watching along with us from their palace balcony.


We did make it another day to watch the changing of the guard. We waited an hour at St. James Palace with just a small crowd. After watching the ceremony there, we walked up the mall to Buckingham Palace alongside the guard as they played music. As we got closer to the palace, it was more crowded and difficult to see, but we felt like we were able to see more up close this way than if we had watched only from Buckingham.

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The changing of the guard at St. James Palace

The British Library’s Treasures collection preserves awe-inspiring history. We entered a very unpretentious room to find displayed the original Magna Carta, the Gutenberg Bible, Handel’s handwritten Messiah, a notebook of Da Vinci’s ideas and sketches, and so much more. It’s a small, quiet space where the crowds are manageable. So happy we hit the history jackpot with this discovery!
Dining surprises included Beijing Dumpling where there is a line out the door for a reason and Sutton & Sons where traditional fish and chips are served in an interestingly diverse neighborhood. The creamy, vegan, bourbon and toffee milkshake at @cookiesandscreambakery is reason enough to return to London soon!

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Meandering the Adriatic

Having visions of visiting Venice, the question remained, “Where else do we go?” An excursion through the Adriatic which connects northern Italy with the Balkan countries of Slovenia and Croatia seemed like the ideal destination.

After a flight to Milan/Bergamo and an hour’s drive east, we spent our first night in Verona. Is it stereotypical that our first Italian meal was pizza? Even so, it was a delightful initiation at Pizzeria Ristorante Olimpia. @pizzeriaristoranteolimpiaverona

Verona provided a smooth transition into vacation mode. During the day we easily visited the historic town center with the balcony of Juliet and the Roman amphitheater (3rd largest in Italy).

A couple of Spritz and some quiet moments away from Verona’s crowds at the ZEN Lounge Cafe. @zenloungecafe

An hour and a half’s drive later and we arrived in Venice.  Luckily, our rental house offered us private parking in a garage on Tronchetto Island.  Now, unencumbered by a car, we prepared to explore the canals.

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Suitcases in tow on the vaporetto ride from Tronchetto to Giardini stop

Venice is one of those places where you can have an extraordinary experience or one overwhelmed by crowds and commercialism. To avoid the latter, the best suggestion is to plan your active times for early morning and after 4pm. At these times, the cruise ship inundation can be avoided and the city is actually as peaceful and romantic as it should be. This is particularly true for gondola rides. We saw bumper to bumper gondolas during the day. But, when we took ours just before 7pm, and the change to the higher nighttime rates, there was not another gondola in sight. This truly made the ride mesmerizing and memorable.

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Early morning walks let you appreciate how this city functions. It’s all about moving things in and out.

We chose to stay a bit of a walk out of the city center. Via Garibaldi in the Castello District is an island of tranquility and authenticity. So glad that we centered our homebase in this area!

To continue the adventure, we next visited Trieste, one of Italy’s eastern-most cities. Here, we enjoyed the combined Italian and Greek hospitalities of two charming restaurateurs.    While deciding which terrace to choose, these owners invited us to enjoy both restaurants, Taverna Sapori Greci @tavernasaporigreci and Sorsi & Morsi, simultaneously.

A quick jaunt south took us to Slovenia’s only coastal area and a charming village surrounded by blue Adriatic Sea. Piran is about being in the moment to enjoy its vibrant colors, ocean breeze, and slow pace.  (To get into the zen-zone, use a garage just outside of the village and the free bus to the plaza!!)

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After this busy day of exploration, our first Croatian home welcomed us with fresh made raspberry bread.  Our stay at Holiday Home Ivana (found through Airbnb.com) was unfortunately shortened by impending rain, but we loved being surrounded by all of the homey details provided by Ivana at her spacious, clean and cute vacation house.  Next time we hope to enjoy the hot tub and fabulous vistas!

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With rain a day away, we drove the next morning to arrive in time for a quick lunch and nap before heading to the Plitvice Lakes National Park.  The beauty and awe inspired by this park cannot be captured in pictures.  It is an odyssey to walk up the boardwalks to be met at each level with a new set of stunning green-blue lakes and cascading waterfalls.  As in Venice, we found that going later in the day (around 3pm) allowed us to avoid the crowds. So, while not alone, we were also not crowded or uncomfortable.

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The next morning, a drive north led us to the city of Zagreb where they’ve achieved a pleasurable balance of old world with the new. (Pleasurable, at least, after the hour-plus wait to pay toll.)  Here, we spent two days and nights surrounded by the historic city center but were taken by surprise at various turns with encounters such as WWII bomb shelters turned into artsy tunnels, the enormous central food market, the intensity of the Museum of Broken Relationships, and the bluesy-retro concert, nighttime city view and convivial ambiance that we enjoyed at StrossMartre.  As David kept saying… “This is such a COOL place!”

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A two-hour drive west took us to the Slovenian capital, Ljubljana, which we passed to drive another 45 minutes to visit Lake Bled for the day.  Although cloudy and threatening rain, the water remained a striking blue color.  The trip in a traditional boat to the island was enjoyable and felt like a “must-do” although there was not a lot to see once there.  Overall, the area felt very touristy with minimal parking. We’re not sure what people find to do there for several days as it’s not a place of relaxation.  For us at least, it’s a site to visit once to soak in its beauty but not a place to linger.

The trip back from Bled to Ljubljana brought us one of our most enjoyable experiences of the trip.  Having faith in the GPS, we ventured into the unknown and found a small rural restaurant. In fact, we unknowingly discovered a Gostilna Slovenija, a small Slovenian inn recognized for its traditional cuisine. (If interested in these inns, see also http://www.gostilnaslovenija.si/ ) Gostilna Mlin has a 4 foot local river channel between the inn and terrace.  After ordering the trout recommended by our likeable waitress, we watched with enthusiasm when a man strolled 10 feet to catch our dinner with a net.

We arrived in Ljubljana in time for our host, Stane, to walk us to his 15th century home a few steps away from the Town Hall before heading out for a late afternoon walk of the city.  Ljubljana takes many measures to preserve the historical integrity of its buildings and streets and its city center is pedestrian only.  In 2016, Ljubljana was recognized as the European Green Capital.  All of this combined with outdoor lights, music wafting down streets and friendly locals creates a magical medieval haven.  Some highlights for us besides the pure pleasure of strolling the cobblestone streets lined with cafes included the beautiful interior of the Sts. Cyril and Methodius Church and a delicious menu-of-the-day lunch at Druga Violina which supports special needs adults by providing employment.

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Fortunately, when planning this trip, we had the foresight to build in a couple of days of downtime at the end.  With our longest day of driving (5 hours), we returned west to Lake Iseo in Italy. All we really needed here were a market to buy fish, pasta and Prosecco and a few lounge chairs.  Residence Ca’laRipa built in 1791 and warmly hosted by Andrea provided the perfect spot for relaxing with its spacious rooms and patio overlooking the lake.  We did venture one day to see the small town of Lovere.  But, most of the time we were happily relaxing on our patio with the mystical lake views, trying to remember all of the delightful experiences of the past days.

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The Good Life in Costa Rica

Looking for natural hot springs, refreshing rivers, and jungle wildlife, we arrived in San Jose after a several hours extra layover in Texas due to volcanic ash in the air around San José.  The ash was all carefully cleaned from the rental cars, our friend at the rental company smiled as he recounted the mornings’ work.

Driving in Costa Rica is not for the faint-hearted.  Not because of multi-laned, speeding mayhem but due to the narrow, winding roads where lanes come and go without warning and there always seems to be walkers of all ages unconcerned by the traffic passing within inches of them.  Our introduction to driving was with Friday night traffic as we made our way to Quesada for a couple of nights at the Termales del Bosque.  We awoke the next morning to breakfast on the patio before heading to the hot springs via a trail through the forest.  To our surprise, besides us, the visitors that day were only a handful of local families and couples. Less than 24 hours into our trip, and we’d already settled into the “good life.”

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Continuing our circular drive, we went northwest to La Fortuna.  We stayed at Arenal Oasis Eco Lodge & Wildlife Refuge, a paradise owned by the family of David’s friend.  The cabins provide a jungle retreat from the daily rain showers and the perfect place to hear the chorus of animal calls each afternoon.  On our walk to breakfast, we passed by a neverending line of leaf-cutter ants carrying their leaves to some unseen destination. 

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And the best part doesn’t happen until nighttime!  On their property, you can take a small group guided night walk to see frogs, snakes, iguanas, and centipedes. (Our guide, Gustavo, was the perfect blend of expertise and charm!)

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Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park

As teachers, we always like to visit schools on our adventures.  When we stopped by Escuela Nuevo Arenal, we spoke with the principal about the school and its importance to the community.  He even showed us the forested area behind the school where students are labeling all of the different types of plants.

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Afterward, a walk around the sleepy town then a delicious tostada in a “soda” where David took on the local kids in a game of fuzzball.

On our way to our most northern stop at Rio Celeste, Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio, we debated whether to detour to Nicaragua.  (We decided to wait for another trip…..a Nicaragua blog for the future!)  Rio Celeste is one of those natural phenomena that seems like a dream even while you’re seeing it.  The sky-blue water is so mesmerizing that a folktale says that this is where God washed his brushes after painting the sky. The trek even during the dry season was fairly muddy and steep at times, but it was definitely worth the effort.  When we first reached the enchanted destination, there was a 4-inch fluorescent blue butterfly dancing above the water. Breathtaking!

A video we took on the hike to “teñideros” (the place where the water color changes).

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Typical “casado” lunch with rice and beans after the hike at Posada La Amistad.

Luckily, we had the perfect place to rest at the Sueño Celeste Bed and Breakfast.  The owners have created a relaxing retreat where you can feel the blend of their Belgian organization and hospitality with the “Pura Vida” lifestyle.  The individual lodges hold beautiful beds draped in mosquito nets and terrific open showers. There is a small pool and hot tub for relaxing after a tiring day and a homemade breakfast to start each day while watching the birds or asking the owners for recommendations about sightseeing options.

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A quick detour off of our driving circle took us to Jacó and Manuel Antonio National Park.  Because the number of people and the general feel of a tourist trap, this was our least favorite part of the trip although Holly did get to see her first sloth in the wild!

While this destination was not as rewarding as the others in Costa Rica, the accommodations were exquisite!  We had the boutique hotel, Forest Hills Suites, all to ourselves with the exception of one couple….and they were leaving for a night out when we arrived!

Costa Rica surely calls to all of those wanting to slow their pace and live in the moment.  After having a taste of the flora and fauna, you wonder about all of the natural treasures that you haven’t yet discovered there.  Then, you realize, you have the perfect excuse for a return visit!

High Stakes Winners in Macau

Having just visited Hong Kong, a one hour trip by TurboJet ferry across Victoria Harbor provided us an opportunity to visit the prior Portuguese colony of Macau.  I first recognized its colonial past while walking on its black and white sidewalks. The small square stones laid in patterns of waves, anchors and stars were identical to those in Lisbon that chewed up my suitcase wheels on the hills to an AirBnB.

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The Portuguese left other remnants such as street names and buildings that would be at home in southern Europe.  These treasures are found in the Historic Centre of Macau which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  

Walking its streets you feel a European vibe with the cobblestones, architecture, and, of course, an abundance of catholic churches.  However, the apartment buildings with aging, small balconies towering above yield a constant reminder of its Asian locale.  

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From our hotel, The Rio Hotel, a steep 20-minute climb up dangerous portions of roads without sidewalks led to the Guia Lighthouse.  This was the first modern lighthouse on the Chinese coast and today it is used as the GPS location for Macau.  At its side, The Cathedral of the Lady of the Snow displays some restored frescoes which are interesting but not spectacular.  As with many places we visited, we watched the Chinese tourists taking selfies with friends here. As meticulous as any Western teenagers, they try all of the possible backgrounds and snap as many photos as possible to get that one great selfie.  

One of the premier Portuguese influences we experienced was the food!  We lunched at Dom Galo our first day in the city.  The thick, book-sized menus included pictures of each selection.  Although difficult to decide, we were delighted with our choices shown in the photos below.

During another lunch, we savored traditional dim sum at 台灣老舖美食 which means Taiwan Delicious.   David tried the pork-filled dumplings (with a side plate of pig ears) while the dumplings for the pescatarian were filled with crab and, surprisingly,  soup. Although the food was outstanding, one of the best parts of the experience was sharing our 4 person table. The first young couple was not so sure about their tablemates.  The next graciously gave a very long explanation in Chinese when I asked “Soy sauce?” while pointing to one of the bottles on the table.

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For dinner one night, the cozy European setting of Vinha provided a relaxed and elegant atmosphere.  This is where we found the Portuguese meal that we want to recreate at home.  A layer of thin-cut fried potatoes is topped by a stir-fry of cod, onions, green peppers, and scrambled eggs. The blend produced the perfect balance of simplicity and flavor.

Macau is a gambling haven and Chinese tourists visit here for its multitude of casinos and the exclusive shopping.  In this aspect, Macau is like Las Vegas on steroids. There are mega casinos such as the Galaxy Macau and The Venetian Macau which dwarf those on the Vegas strip.  Inside, the casino areas are packed with gamblers betting at blackjack, poker, and slots as well as games unfamiliar to us.  Other entertainment includes incredible swimming facilities like the world’s largest rooftop wave pool, full-sized cinemas, and Vegas type shows in addition to a varied selection of restaurants. Based on the quantity of bags that we saw, the Chinese visitors here take in not only the gambling but the shopping as well. Versace, Dior, Armani, Tom Ford, and Channel were always busy with patrons as were hundreds of other designer stores.  

Macau delivers a remarkable perspective of how the sharing of cultures produces a distinctive atmosphere.  Although we didn’t place even a single bet, we feel like high stakes winners having collected memories of cobblestone pavers, Old World food, and bright casino lights.  

4 days in Hong Kong

We couldn’t have picked a more ideal location than Hong Kong to begin a blog about the alchemy of combining cultures since the East and the West united here long ago.  

We arrived on Easter morning, tired but ready to explore.  In the well located City View Hotel, there were guests enjoying Easter brunch with their families.  Around the city, families explored the Flower Market, the Bird Market and listened to karaoke in the streets.

While walking down Shanghai Street, a stand with Takoyaki octopus balls beckoned us.  This Japanese street food is filled with octopus, tempura scraps, pickled ginger and green onion and covered with sweet, tangy sauces squirted from bottles by ladies chatting with one another. See how they make them here:


Of course, the fun part of street food is eating with a stick while walking down a narrow sidewalk lit by a myriad of neon signs!

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To our surprise, the next day was also a public holiday to continue the long Easter weekend. With fewer people out, the city felt like our own. An early morning trek up Victoria Peak was capped by an hour walk around the loop trail atop.  Don’t believe the naysayers…you don’t want to miss this unique perspective of Hong Kong! 

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Hong Kong Park was filled with surprises.  For a park inside one of the world’s largest cities, it felt removed from the busyness.  The aviary has some beautiful and unique birds and it’s cleaner than our house thanks to a routine of hosing everything down multiple times per day. This was our introduction to all of the Chinese who work to maintain cleanliness whether in a park like this or raking leaves at a public square or temple.

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Traditional Chinese lunch at Tsui Wash Restaurant with fishball soup with fish cakes, shrimp and seaweed noodle dumplings, pork cartilage with chives soup and milk tea.

At the Mo-Man Temple we were warmly welcomed to visit.  One teenage boy offered a bamboo incense stick in smooth English. The incense inside the small temple created a mysterious ambiance although the smoke stung the eyes.  Of the temples we visited, this one felt the most alive with the nonstop praying and incense burning of the devout.

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A day trip by bus to the New Territories gave us a chance to see what Hong Kong holds outside of the city.  We took the metro to Tung Chung then Bus 23 to Ngong Ping. An early arrival assured us a chance to see the Po Lin Monastery before the Ngong Ping 360 brought cable cars full of tourists.  A sweet lady in robes took some photos of us by the temple. She even encouraged us to stand in front of the open door of the photo restricted area of the altar.  With a loud and stern voice, a female security guard quickly cut short our hopes for getting our photo with the three bronze statues of Buddha inside. The sweet lady in robes gave us a quick smile with laughing eyes before we turned our separate ways and walked away.

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We started to walk the Wisdom Trail beside the monastery but were discouraged by the poor maintenance and buzzing mosquitoes.  We opted for a Coke while trying to avoid being watered by the gardener wielding his hose. At 10 A.M. we were second in line to climb the 268 steps to see the Big Buddha.  

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Next, Bus 11 took us to the fishing village of Tai OWith houses built on stilts, market stalls with vendors (of course!), and chanting monks with incense, the village gives a taste of more rural life.  David’s favorite part…grilled octopus on a stick!

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Another early morning start to beat the crowds to the Ten Thousand Buddhas Temple. Although it officially opens at 9 A.M., you can walk the 400+ stairs lined with golden Buddhas before this time.  In fact, we entered the temple areas prior to opening time without any resistance. Our visit coincided with the Ching Ming Festival where families honor their loved ones by bringing gifts to their place of final rest.  Inside the columbarium, the walls are lined with boxes that resemble a bank’s wall of safe-deposit boxes.  When the outside door the small box is opened, a picture of the loved one is revealed while inside their ashes are preserved.  We were able to watch several families making offerings of incense and oranges in this touching remembrance.

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Lunch in Sha Tin at MeokBang Korean BBQ & Bar. Set price menu with salad, appetizer (spicy but not sure what it was!), grilled chicken with rice omelet with egg, and vermicelli rice noodles with seafood. Great lime and ginger drinks!

Four days in Hong Kong gave us a small taste of this amazing place.  Happily, the fusion of East and West results in an intact and unique Eastern culture with some Western spice sprinkled in.  We were thankful for their command of the English language (and English signage!) and we’re still unsure which way to look when crossing the street!